Bow Tie Hair Ornament

Hungary | ca. 1900 | Gold, silver, diamonds and ruby | Bachruch (maker)


This is a piece of bow-styled jewelry with a 6.89-carat cushion-cut Burmese ruby in the center, and diamonds inlaid surrounding the ruby. The piece is detachable and could be worn both as a brooch or as a tiara.


Bow tie jewelry has a long history, dating back to the Roman period, and was once again popular in the mid-17th century. This tiara was made by the Hungarian jeweler Bachruch around 1900 and is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The goldsmith managed to manipulate hard metal and precious stones to simulate the delicate softness of lace in creating this masterpiece.


Archduke Frederich of Austria-Teschen (left)

Maria Anna wearing the bow tie hair ornament (right)

In 1905, Archduke Friedrich of Austria-Teschen gave this tiara as a gift to his daughter Maria Anna to celebrate the birth of his grandson, Prince Carlo Luigi. Maria Anna recorded in her jewelry archive: "A white leather box with a large diamond bow and a large ruby (from Bachruch) in the center. This bow was a gift from my father for the birth of my son Carlo."


Wedding photo of Elias and Maria Anna, 1903

Carlo Luigi was born on September 22, 1905, the second child and eldest son of Maria Anna and Prince Elias of Bourbon-Parma. Unfortunately, Carlo Luigi died of polio in 1912, when he was just seven years old.

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