Bow Tie Hair Ornament

Hungary | ca. 1900 | Gold, silver, diamonds and ruby | Bachruch (maker)

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This is a piece of bow-styled jewelry with a 6.89-carat cushion-cut Burmese ruby in the center, and diamonds inlaid surrounding the ruby. The piece is detachable and could be worn both as a brooch or as a tiara.


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Bow tie jewelry has a long history, dating back to the Roman period, and was once again popular in the mid-17th century. This tiara was made by the Hungarian jeweler Bachruch around 1900 and is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The goldsmith managed to manipulate hard metal and precious stones to simulate the delicate softness of lace in creating this masterpiece.


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Archduke Frederich of Austria-Teschen (left)

Maria Anna wearing the bow tie hair ornament (right)


In 1905, Archduke Friedrich of Austria-Teschen gave this tiara as a gift to his daughter Maria Anna to celebrate the birth of his grandson, Prince Carlo Luigi. Maria Anna recorded in her jewelry archive: "A white leather box with a large diamond bow and a large ruby (from Bachruch) in the center. This bow was a gift from my father for the birth of my son Carlo."


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Wedding photo of Elias and Maria Anna, 1903


Carlo Luigi was born on September 22, 1905, the second child and eldest son of Maria Anna and Prince Elias of Bourbon-Parma. Unfortunately, Carlo Luigi died of polio in 1912, when he was just seven years old.




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